Javier's Place

Nerja

I didn’t sleep well last night.  The bed has a memory foam mattress (I think it was remembering someone else). I woke up feeling tired, achey and home sick.  I’m not that good at doing holidays, I like to be in my familiar habitat.  When I heard that it was raining in France and foggy in Wiltshire I felt a bit better about things, especially as the sun is shining here.

We are at Javier’s place in Nerja.  Nerja is a busy seaside town seething with elderly ex-pats, parking is almost impossible. Our little Andalusian villa is tucked away in an oasis of palm trees, orange trees and bougainvillea well away from the hubbub and zimmer frames.  We found Los Hamacus through Airbnb and it looked idyllic on the website.  It’s a quirky little place, a bit shabby around the edges and the garden is a jungle but we like it here.  Paul is happy because there’s a donkey in the next door garden. Javier is charming; he was still mopping floors and making beds when we arrived.  

The beach is just across the road but it’s steep and pebbly, not easy for walking.  We are having  a lazy day reading on the sunny verandah and drinking freshly squeezed oranges straight from the tree.  Actually I had the orange juice at breakfast and we’re now on to cold beers. We’re here until Saturday so plenty of time to relax.  I wish Javier would come and cut the grass.

let me out

quirky features

I wish Javier would cut the grass

freshly picked orange and tangerine

Flamenco

Saturday night and Seville is really buzzing.  Paul and I took a taxi to the El Arenal, a historic 17^th century Andalusian building tucked away in a side street to watch some flamenco. This was not touristy, cabaret flamenco.  This was truly authentic flamenco. We had seats right at the edge of the stage and I was just enthralled by it all. The dancing was amazing – so much energy and passion, castanets clicking like a rattlesnake ready to pounce.  

Each dancer came on stage and stood motionless for the first moments absorbing the strums of the guitar, the clapping and the singing before suddenly launching themselves into the dance.  The singer (the cantaor) almost sounds as if he is in pain as he sings.  It was a truly memorable evening.

Afterwards we strolled back alongside the river to our hotel.  All the lights of the city seemed to be reflected in the water, it all looked magnificent.  There were crowds of people milling about but they seemed more like citizens of Seville rather than tourists. We felt very safe. This city is growing on me.

As we walked through the back streets of Triana we suddenly heard the unmistakable sound of clapping, stomping and caterwauling coming from a bar.  I peered through the door but Paul had had enough and dragged me back to the hotel. Bah!

walking back to the hotel, yes that's me dancing in the street

Tomorrow (Sunday) we say goodbye to Seville and head south to the small seaside town of Nerja.

Seville

It’s siesta time and we are back in our hotel room after a morning’s wander around the city.  There is some magnificent architecture, we started off at the palatial buildings of the Plaza de Espana and then drifted through the old streets in the vicinity of Alcazar and the cathedral.  We spent a lot of time dodging tour groups, horse and carriages, Segways and bicycles.  Every street corner had the usual tourist shop where you could buy a plastic fan or a polyester flamenco dress.

we decided not to join the lengthy queue for access to the Alacazar

We eventually managed to find our way off the tourist track and enjoyed a leisurely lunch of vino tinto and tapas in a street cafe. 

Tonight we are going to see some flamenco which I am really looking forward to but I guess you have to spend more than a couple of days in this city to discover the real Seville.

Spanish hen party

some amazing architecture

Arriving in Seville

We left Salamanca this morning and travelled  through a landscape of snowy mountains, neat stone walled fields (a bit like Weaver’s Yorkshire) and then endless groves of olive trees.  We arrived in Seville late afternoon. 

I felt a bit despondent as we checked into our hotel on the edge of the city.  We chose this place for its location and secure parking.  Paul didn’t fancy trying to negotiate his way through the narrow one way streets of the old quarter.  The hotel is big, modern and has very little charm but we do have a nice view over the river.  

We went out at 8.00 p.m. to find somewhere to eat.  It feels late to me but Seville is only just starting to come alive at this hour.  We walked along by the river to the local area of Triana where there are numerous tapas bars and restaurants.  We chose a quiet bar and it was warm enough to sit outside with our wine and tapas.  Crowds of local people of all ages were walking up and down the streets, everyone seemed to know each other and within minutes our quiet bar was full of chattering Spaniards and the pavement spilling over with tables and chairs.  It all felt very convivial.

Tomorrow we will cross the old bridge across the river and explore the old part of the city.

Smurfs and Tapas

I love this hotel.  What can be better than sitting at an open window overlooking a pretty cloistered garden bathed in sunshine? In fact I love Salamanca. 

We set out this morning to explore the old quarter of the city.  The architecture is amazing, examples of  Romanesque, Gothic, Moorish, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture everywhere.  Lots of students (Salamanca has some of the world’s oldest university buildings) but not too many tourists at this time of year.  We drank coffee sitting outside in the Plaza Mayor, a magnificent square with galleries and arcades.  We shared tapas in a local bar for lunch, struggling with our few words of Spanish.  This Spain is a world apart from the Costas.

I have taken far too many photos. Sadly they don't capture the warm, golden hues of the sandstone architecture.  I’ll leave you with a few, you can flick through them very quickly (or ignore them if you prefer).  Tomorrow we head for Seville.

Roman bridge crossing the Tormes River

one of the university buildings

 

these guys were actually dancing!

The Mayor's office (I think)

yes, that is a lady's corset!

random Smurfs